FEATURE ARTICLE

Putting the science into sparkle: A review of in-cosmetics Global 2017

Published: April 10, 2017

At this year’s in-cosmetics Global, we met with BASF, Beraca, Corbion, CPL Aromas, DKSH, Evonik, IMCD, InterPolymer, KahlWax, Lonza, Lubrizol, Merck, Vertellus, WACKER, WeylChem and others, to discuss global trends, new products and opportunities. Sarah Harding reports.

Why in-cosmetics? 

In a record-breaking year, more visitors than ever before descended on London’s ExCel from 4th to 6th April, to see and talk to 800+ leading and niche suppliers showcasing thousands of cosmetics products.

In the words of Alain Saintrond, Owner of The Innovation Company, which was celebrating its 30th anniversary with a great deal of on-trend glitz and glitter, “It’s the best show – nothing else comes close.” Stefanie Freye, Technical Sales & Product Manager at NRC agreed, “It’s the most important show for cosmetics.”

Primarily, exhibitors viewed the event as a place to meet their customers face to face. Jeffrey Rogers, Vice President, Head of Global Business Unit at Lonza, noted that in-cosmetics Global offers a chance to share news about what’s happening in the industry, and to interact. “It allows us to make ourselves available to our customers,” he explained.

Paule Guay, Manager – Business Support at DKSH noted that “It is interesting to have meetings here because we can introduce our suppliers to our customers so they can share technological information.”

“We’re meeting a lot of our clients, but we’re meeting new people too,” commented Bárbara Zibellini of Beraca.


CPL Aromas presented a fresh new face to the world

CPL Aromas – the largest fragrance house in the world – used in-cosmetics Global as a platform to relaunch their brand, as they continue to develop more of a focus on prestige fragrances. The stylish rebranding has a much more fashion-oriented theme. “We would always exhibit at in-cosmetics,” asserted Francis Pickthall, Director of CPL Aromas.

Similarly, Claudius Schwarzwälder, Senior Marketing Manager – Performance Solutions at WACKER, explained that “Wacker Chemie AG has completed their personal care website with new videos highlighting their special effect campaign.” You can see it at www.wacker.com/special-effects.

What’s trending now?

Walking through the show, it was clear that glitter is back! Whether this trend reflects an influence from the Asia Pacific is up for debate, but Manuela Pilz, Product Manager for Glitter at Sigmund Lindner believes that glitter’s popularity follows a peak–trough pattern over time, and now is a peak time for sparkles.

The market intelligence company Euromonitor International highlighted a growing trend for ‘less is more’. Certainly, CPL Aromas echoes this sentiment, with EcoBoost concentration technology for liquid fragrances. The patented approach uses just 10% of the normal fragrance dosage, drastically reducing packaging, and lowering levels of some ingredients to below the regulatory threshold for on-pack labelling.

Beate Anniés, Head of Global Marketing – Cosmetics Actives & Fillers at Merck, agreed that a trend for ‘simplification’ is emerging. “This trend has already been seen in furniture, lifestyles and time management, and it can be incorporated into cosmetics,” said Anniés. “Our Premium Kit focuses on Renoumer, which uses the cytoplasma of red algae – it has tremendous effects on collagen and has been incorporated into a formulation with just nine ingredients.”

Christoph Kowitz, head of WACKER's Performance Silicones Business Unit,highlighted a trend for products with multiple effects and benefits. “For example,” said Kowitz, “A conditioner that provides glossiness and supple hair is not enough anymore – customers also expect easy combing properties, heat protection and improved colouring.” He said silicones are often the only ingredients that can provide these effects at the same time, as they are easy to handle and adaptable for robust formulations.

Bárbara Zibellini of Beraca is working with four macrotrends: embrace life; digital revolution; technological inspiration; and going natural. Although ‘going natural’ is not new, Zibellini pointed to the fact that it is still growing. This is reflected in the ‘digital revolution’ which is about companies sharing their values on social media and consumers buying brands that support their personal beliefs. ‘Embrace life’ reflects a trend for customers to want something extra – an added experience from the product.

Patrick Weismueller of Evonik is focussing on the more ‘edgy’ trend of tattoos – with some stunning promotional photography – as well as beard grooming and Fun! “We want our products to be fun,” he explained, “So we are creating different textures like the ‘Magic Touch Snowball’.” This product emerges as a light mousse but turns to a rich moisturizing cream. Another ‘fun’ product is their ‘Milky Cream’ which breaks into water droplets when applied to the skin.

Maxime Fougère, Segment Marketing Specialist at Lubrizol is also focussing on fun, with a campaign to transform your daily cleansing routine with captivating sensations. Lubrizol’s new range of cleaning gels and creams – including a soothing, sprayable body wash intended for after-sun care – are designed to give the consumer a tactile as well as aromatic and effective experience. For example, a combination of Lubrizol’s Novethix L-10 Polymer and Polysorbate 20 turn a cleansing gel into ‘crushed ice’ upon mixing (it settles back into a gel when left). My personal favourite was a ‘Wash & Play’ hand cleansing jelly for children – a moulding toy in the form of a cleaning product that is surely bound to get even the grubbiest little fingers clean!

Innovation in practice

Visitors with innovation in mind were not disappointed. A host of new ingredients will influence product development in 2017, including 109 new ingredients – launched in the last 6 months – in the Innovation Zone. Laboratoires Expanscience and Ashland took Golds in the active and functional ingredient categories, respectively, in this year’s in-cosmetics Global Awards for the Innovation Zone Best Ingredient. Laboratoires Expanscience impressed the judges with Passoiline, a virgin oil of maracuja fruit seeds, which has shown efficacy in tissue repair and cell regeneration. Ashland was awarded for its FiberHance BM Solution, a natural glucoside that strengthens and repairs internal hair fibres.

Johnson & Johnson hosted their first Flash Cosmetics Pitch. This energetic event offered an opportunity for early stage start-ups with game-changing technology to pitch their ideas to industry experts. Of 11 start-ups, Nuritas, a digital biotech from Ireland, was announced the winner, with its discovery of peptides from natural plant sources using artificial intelligence and DNA analysis.

Vertellus launched Freshstat Plus, a cetylpyridinium chloride (CPC) based preservative.Tracey Ross, Research Scientist – Formulation Development, explained that this newest Freshstat product has been designed as a preservative for anionic surfactant systems. It contains technologies that naturally boost performance of Freshstat in surfactant-based systems, including shampoos and liquid body washes. These technologies allow Vertellus’s Freshstat Plus preservative system to address challenges commonly posed by select mould species in surfactant-based product formulations. Ross had an impressive range of products on show that she had formulated herself, based on Freshstat products, and all of which were available to test on the Vertellus stand.

As noted by Lonza’s Ernesto Lippert, Vice President Global Marketing & Technology, “Our mission is to base all activities on scientific innovation.” Lonza was highlighting Polyaldo emulsifiers – probably the mildest surfactants on the market – and their preservatives portfolio. Lippert explained, “We have focussed on actives in the past, but now we are showcasing our capabilities in formulation.” Jeffrey Rogers, Vice President, Head of Global Business Unit added, “Lonza has a steep tradition in biotech and pharma, and we are reaching into the organization and bringing that knowledge into the personal care space... We have a significant commitment to the personal care industry, and our aspiration is to grow, bring in excellent solutions, and leverage the size, scale and scope of Lonza to provide additional services.”

BASF unveiled personal care solutions based on three ‘Dimensions of Science’. “Our success is based on science excellence,” said Birte Kattelmann-Jagdt, Senior Communication Manager – Personal Care Europe. “The basic principle of BASF is market empathy – understanding consumer wishes and translating that into products that perform.” This empathy and excellence was reflected in BASF’s three new launches at the show: Collalift 18, an extract of African mahogany bark that stimulates the synthesis of collagen XVIII, and improves the skin’s elasticity recovery and reduces lines, and wrinkles; Oligolin, a hydrolyzed linseed extract that is an anti-aging active for skincare products; and Sveltine ST, a natural plant extract that redefines body curves.

Nina Schäfer, Account Manager – Personal Care at WeylChem, explained the company entered the personal care space in 2017 with allantoin, and is now launching two products: ATBS, a thickener based on sulfonic acid that is for skin applications and will be available from the beginning of June; and CetylP, a potassium cetyl phosphate emulsifier aimed primarily at sun care products, which will be available in October. “We are developing a lot of new products, so there will be a lot more over the next year,” added Schäfer.

Omya, a global manufacturer of CaCO3, was launching Omyadent. Ana Castellano Gasso, Marketing Coordinator Consumer Goods, explained that “Omyadent is a product of proprietary functionalized CaCO3 technology that provides remineralization and whitening of tooth enamel by repairing microscopic defects.” Omyadent adds to Omya’s portfolio of oral care products that offer cleaning performance, remineralization and whitening for toothpastes. Omya also provides CaCO3 for other sectors, including personal care, hygiene, food, pharmaceuticals, agriculture, construction and polymers.

InterPolymer, a division of Zschimmer & Schwarz, makes water-based polymers. Their polymers bind ingredients – fillers, colours glitters etc – into a film, and they top the film-forming sector. Examples of their products include semi-permanent tattoos that are water soluble and comprise large molecules, so they do not penetrate the skin. The beautiful film left on the skin surface is long-lasting (if left alone – it is easily removed if desired), and permits transepidermal water loss. Perfect for eyeliners, temporary tattoos and general summer fun!

WACKER, a leading manufacturer of silicones, was also ready to showcase their latest developments. As explained by Christoph Kowitz, Head of WACKER's Performance Silicones Business Unit, “Silicones are quite innovative materials by nature: they are extremely versatile and have a whole set of properties which can be combined and tailored in almost any conceivable way. In fact, we’ve introduced novel silicone products at in-cosmetics almost every year.” This year, Wacker was presenting novel silicone fluid emulsions for shampoos, which have a pleasant conditioning effect, even at low quantities. They were also launching BELSIL EG 6000, a new product that uses a linear volatile silicone fluid as its liquid component, and can significantly improve the skin-sensory and rheological properties of moisturizing creams, mascaras and deodorants.

Barcelona-based Bicosome was showcasing an intelligent targeted delivery system. Rosana Saldaňa, Sales & Marketing Manager, explained “By encapsulating molecules in a way that responds to the environment of each skin layer, the system delivers actives to the layer in which they need to work”. The current range comprises four systems for: acne control (Bicomide – launched at in-cosmetics Global); elasticity and firmness (Bicosome); deep sun repair (Bicotene); and levelling skin tone (Bicowhite).

Sustainable industry

Of course, much modern innovation is centred around sustainability. In the Green Ingredient category of this year’s in-cosmetics Global Awards, run in partnership with Ecovia Intelligente, Naturex scooped the Gold award for Eliorelys, a new active derived from cherry blossoms using a green, biomimetic extraction solvent process.

BASF brought sustainability to the fore with its second ‘Palm Dialogue’, dedicated to the impact of the palm-based oleochemical industry. BASF presented its roadmap for sustainable palm, its collaboration along the value chain and progress in driving physical transformation in oleoderivatives. “A reliable certification system and maximum transparency are key steps towards protecting high carbon stock forests,” said Jan-Peter Sander, Senior Vice President BASF Personal Care Europe. “This allows us to help our customers fulfil the obligations they took to achieve sustainable palm-based products, and participate in shaping the market as it evolves.”

Naturally, BASF’s new active ingredients Collalift 18, Oligolin, and Sveltine ST are all 100% renewable-based and COSMOS-approved.

The ways in which CPL Aromas strives to meet corporate social responsibilities are particularly impressive. As explained by Nick Pickthall, Chief Operating Officer, the company has recently announced an enterprise in sourcing black pepper oil from Sri Lanka, which involves direct partnership with local growers and has a strong focus on sustainability. In similar efforts, he is starting to work with victims of genocide in Rwanda to source patchouli oil, and with local farms in Afghanistan to source rose oil.

InterPolymer’s water-based polymers are also a move in the sustainable direction. In 2012, the company won the Innovation prize in Barcelona for their water-based nail polish (these will soon be scented – keep a look out!) As well as being kinder to the body, this product avoids the use of solvents, which side-steps solvent evaporation into the atmosphere.

Beate Anniés, Head of Global Marketing – Cosmetics Actives & Fillers at Merck, spoke of the company’s Renoumer product, which uses the cytoplasma of red algae. The algae are cultured to responsibly source marine ingredients and – when combined with Merck’s Ectoin, which is derived from dessert bacteria, the company’s products combine natural principles from the ocean and dessert. This is similar to Beraca’s approach to bringing together ingredients from Brazilian biodiversity – from the Amazon or other biomes – in a sustainable manner.

Omya obtains its CaCO3 from quarries, but is careful to ensure that areas are replanted after they have been excavated. Furthermore, Ana Castellano Gasso, Marketing Coordinator Consumer Goods, pointed out that CaCO3 is a natural compound that does not pollute the environment.

Evelien Bikker, Global Marketing Coordinator at Corbion explained that lactic acid and derivatives are the company’s focus, derived from the fermentation of renewable sources. New this year is Purac Sanilac – a safe, natural antibacterial ingredient for hand soap that is fully biobased and has a low carbon footprint. It is a safe alternative to many traditional biocides, and has Generally Regarded as Safe (GRAS) status.

On a similar natural theme, KahlWax was launching two products. A replacement for animal-derived lanolin compares favourably on parameters of smoothness, absorption, spreadability and texture, and a sunflower hydrowax for skincare and emulsified systems improves sensory feel and viscosity. Also, re-launched this year, is a jasmine wax from natural sources that is used as a fragrance but has also been found to protect the skin from pollutants – an extra benefit that might have important opportunities in many parts of the world.

Patrick Weismueller explained that Evonik has a new app for sustainability that goes along the whole supply chain, from plantation to disposal, highlighting the issues at each step. He said one of the biggest impacts on sustainability is the time spent under the shower – if products have a reduced rinsing time, this can have a meaningful effect on water and power costs, etc.

Global markets

The market intelligence company Euromonitor International shared data suggesting premium beauty will generate an additional $20 billion by 2021, as it continues to be the driving force behind the global beauty industry. The US and China are expected to account for 54% of the premium products market by 2021.

Anna Picon, Communication Manager, Personal Care at IMCD explained, “All regions have their own particular ingredients, ideas and preferences. We have customers worldwide in the US, EU and Asia Pacific – cosmetics is about your personal taste so we adapt our solutions to requirements in the global regions.” She continued, “We are a big community, with a big focus on beauty, and we can be the solution for all kinds of formulations.”

DKSH is an international organization offering market expansion services, with networks spanning Asia, the US and Europe. Agreeing that different global regions have diverse needs, Paule Guay, Manager – Business Support, emphasized “We are always looking for new kinds of products that help us meet the needs of an area… We look for speciality products that offer something different, for example in terms of texture.”

With several personal care labs and five silicone production sites in Asia, Wacker Chemie is well positioned in the region. As explained by Christoph Kowitz, head of WACKER's Performance Silicones Business Unit, Wacker’s activities in Asia are well focussed on the needs, preferences and priorities of local consumers. “We’ve developed several silicone elastomer gels dedicated for formulating regional skincare products and make-up,” said Kowitz. “And we are continuously expanding our portfolio of silicone fluids and emulsions for shampoos and conditioners for China and India.”

What next?

in-cosmetics travels to Seoul for in-cosmetics Korea in June this year, and to Sao Paolo for in-cosmetics Latin America in September. In October, Bangkok hosts in-cosmetics Asia and New York has in-cosmetics North America.

in-cosmetics Global will return on the 17th to 19th April 2018, in Amsterdam. We look forward to seeing you there!

 

 

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